Simply drill and tap a hole in each side of the channel bracket in the PHB. Use a bolt to snug it up against the frame rail.

The post Installing Maximum Motorsports Panhard Bar appeared first on 93Coupe.com.

http://www.bestmustangparts.com/product_p/mmrsb-2.1.htm

No, I’m not giving close-up pictures of my welds

The post Maximum Motorsports Adjustable Rear Sway Bar MMRSB-2.1 appeared first on 93Coupe.com.

I also installed the “Wild Rides” torque box reinforcement brackets for the lowers.  The kit included the upper brackets too – but I no longer use upper control arms, so…  These fit really well.  I tightened the control arm/chassis bolt first and the bracket pulled up nice and flush with the seat base above it. I drilled and mounted the top plate and then covered it with a sound deadening material – I imagine some additional NVH will want to transmit through this area.

All-in-all a simple install.  Grease the bushings really well to avoid squeaks.  I’ll post the torque arm install next – which is when the actual rear end goes back into the car.

The post Maximum Motorsports Rear Control Arms appeared first on 93Coupe.com.

The two products that I like for this are Simple Green degreaser and VHT Black Roll-Bar Paint.  I only recently discovered the VHT paint at my local auto parts store and it’s awesome.  It sticks and doesn’t easily scratch.

Don’t for get to unhook the rear brake line connection before lowering your rear end too much – see pics.

I had to remove the axles in order to take the caliper brackets off.  In doing so, I discovered that the small bolt that retains the center pin was rounded off slightly.  I had to tack weld a box wrench to it in order to remove it.  Purchased a new one to replace it.

Sorry the pictures aren’t in order.

The post Mustang 8.8 Rear End Removal and Cleanup appeared first on 93Coupe.com.

Wheels are Forgeline GT3 in 18×8.5 and 18×9.5 with Nitto NT05s in 245 40 18 front and 285 35 18 rear.  There is still no engine in the car, so the ride height isn’t 100%.

The post Maximum Motorsports Grip Box – Forgeline Wheels – Nitto NT05 Tires installed appeared first on 93Coupe.com.

The post Maximum Motorsports Rear Coilovers appeared first on 93Coupe.com.

The MM instructions are pretty good.  They start out assuming that your car is still together and driving.  Mine was stripped down with no front suspension in sight…so I skipped the first 3-4 pages.

When you’re doing the entire suspension, you can almost start anywhere.  I decided to assemble the K-member / Control Arms first and then square them up to the chassis.

Basically, you’re going to bolt the control arms to the k-member.  When assembling the bushings and sleeves into the control arms, a VERY thick grease is applied.  Get a box of gloves and change them frequently unless you want EVERYTHING you touch to be graced with a sticky, dirt attracting coat of grease. It’s like normal grease and superglue had kids – no kidding!

Here you can see the poly bushings that are inserted into the control arms – they go in both sides, 4 per control arm.  Grease everything up first.  You can see the ID of the poly bushing is grooved to hold and distribute grease.  Grease the sides too, where they will contact the k-member.  The steel sleeves are inserted into the bushing assembly prior to installing the control arm into the k-member.  Watch out because they are different lengths, front and rear.

MM now includes these low-profile front control arm bolts to replace the factory ones where the larger head would previously contact the power steering rack boots.  You must use the factory rear bolt and both factory nuts.  MM includes two nuts that DO fit but they are spindle nuts, so don’t use them here.

My favorite way to install a k-member by myself.  Just jack it up and bolt it in.

To square the k-member into the car, do the following:

- Use a plumb bob at four points around the car and mark those locations on a piece of tape on the floor below.  The k-member has two holes for the front corners and use the outside of the chassis bolts on the rear control arms.

- Measure front to back on each side and move the k-member until this is equal.

- Re-mark the front locations with the plumb bob, as they will have changed. Measure the diagonal corners to set the k-member side-to-side location.

- When you think you are done, measure again.

The caster camber plates are painfully easy to install.  You should be able to tell how they go together from these pictures.  I didn’t have to use the bump stops that are included with the kit because the MM struts that I have include internal bump stops.  The only problem that I had was a little excess filler in the holes at the top of the shock towers.  I couldn’t really see it, but it was there and it stopped the plates from reaching their full range of adjustment.  I had to sand a couple of the holes to make it all fit.

The coil-overs were pretty easy to assemble.  I didn’t get a picture of the bearing at the top of the assembly.  I just didn’t think about grabbing the camera while my fingers had wheel bearing grease on them.  It’s basically a flat thrust bearing inside two flat races (they look like washers).

Following the MM instructions, I installed the correct spacer onto the coil-over assembly and then installed it into the caster camber plate.  It’s likely that you’ll need a spacer on the top as well to avoid running out of threads on the strut.

I cleaned up my old spindles and installed them onto the lower control arm ball joint.  I was happy to see that this ball joint did not require the spacer usually needed when using SN95 spindles on a fox ball joint.

Almost ready to order the 5.0 Crate Motor.

The post Maximum Motorsports Max Grip Box in Coyote Coupe appeared first on 93Coupe.com.

As usual, the old parts are getting sold to help fund the new parts.  I’m going with a complete Maximum Motorsports front and rear suspension.  I’ll do an install article on that soon.

I’m going to try to obtain all of the paint materials that I need in order to prime, base coat, clear coat the engine bay this coming weekend.  It will be my first shot painting on a car with an HVLP gun.

Here are some pictures from last weekend, in no particular order:

The post Removing Front Suspension appeared first on 93Coupe.com.

Maximum Motorsports – Fits with rack in lower position
Griggs Racing – Unconfirmed
J&M – New K-member designed for this engine

The post Suspension Decisions appeared first on 93Coupe.com.