Say it isn’t so! I took a lot of heat when I started asking around about a trailer hitch for the coupe. I’ve seen numerous sports cars with small tire trailers at the local AutoX and open-track events. A Porsche here or there and even a Ford GT..so why not a lowly Mustang? I don’t own (or want to own) a large truck or a car trailer – so this seemed like a great way to get my tires and gear to the track without dirtying up the inside of the car.
Harbor Freight sells these little gems for just over $200 – and I found a 20% off coupon that I used to buy mine. Welded up a bracket, cut up some 2x4s and I’m ready to go.
The hitch I used was previously made by Reese and is called a “Shadow Mount” – because when you remove the receiver, you install a slim plastic cover and it makes it somewhat less of an eye-sore. At least, not NEARLY as intrusive as the standard hitches out there. Best of all, I can remove it completely in about 10 minutes.
Why am I doing this? Check out Track Guys – they put on a number of HPDE (High Performance Drivers Education) events at REAL racetracks all over the country. If you want to see what YOU can do, in YOUR car on a REAL race track – these are the guys to call. New drivers will have the benefit of an instructor in your car during track sessions (while you drive). Additional classroom training takes place in between your track sessions. I’m going to make a new post about the Sebring event shortly.
I apologize for not taking more pictures, but the install is done and the improvements are huge!
- T-56 Magnum Transmission
- McLeod RST Twin-Disc Clutch
- Exedy lightweight steel flywheel
- Adjustable pivot ball
There were a few challenges here. I’d say this install required more “finesse” than the Coyote swap itself.
- Cut off the original trans mounts and weld in a set from a 98 Cobra. Take care to weld them so that you have your desired pinion angle but not so hight that the trans gets pinched.
- Set pivot ball height. You’ll need to R&R the trans a few times for this. I bought 4 extra long bolts of the sane threads which allowed the trans to slide far enough back to make adjustments – then it went straight back in.
- I had to modify the trans crossmember to clear the exhaust. I just sectioned a piece out and boxed it back in with a MIG.
A buddy and I went out the other night to take some pictures and try our hand at HDR photography. Some consider HDR somewhat artificial looking – and I agree but I like it! It was late at night and quite dark. The camera uses a long exposure time to get the brighter images. To be able to take HDR Pictures, you need to combine 3 separate images using special software like www.hdrsoft.com. You get these 3 images by using a DSLR Camera on a Tri-pod.
Got the coyote project ready just in time for Sebring this year. I ran in group 2 this year. The build was fresh so I wanted an instructor in the car again (group 3 and above is solo, which means you drive alone). The wind noise in the video below is horrible but if you listen, you can tell that I kept the car one gear higher than I could have, to keep the RPMs down on the new motor. Next time, I’m going all out! Here is some footage from the event:
If you’d like to get involved in open track events with your Mustang or other sports car, check out http://www.trackguys.com. This organization is great for everyone. The event is separated into groups – the beginner groups requiring an instructor in the car (this is an excellent way to learn and stay safe!) and the more advanced groups running solo.
There are still a few bugs to work out but it made a long trip to Sebring raceway where it saw a bit of track time.
TMS (www.tmsautosports.com) honored the car with their best of show award, which I really appreciated – these guys are super nice.
I’ll get more pictures up once I’ve cleaned the garage from my chaotic build.
Ok – so I skipped ahead a bit. I have a bunch of pictures and information from the assembly of the 2012 Boss 302 engine but it’s going to take a while to get everything organized and write that article.
Here’s a pic of the installed engine. I painted the engine cover and intake to better match the car – and to make it a little different.
Yesterday, I received the Boss 302 heads for my build. The runners and chambers are CNC ported and look great. I should be able to start engine assembly next week.
I finally received the coyote 5.0 block. It was discontinued by Ford Racing and is supposedly pending replacement by a revised version. The new block will no longer have the option for oil squirters and uses a slightly smaller diameter head bolt. I wonder if there was some weakness in the deck of the previous block that necessitated the head bolt revision?
This discontinued version of the block as part number M-6010-A50L4V
One thing that I noticed right away was that many of the machined surfaces inside the block had numerous burrs and shavings just waiting to fall off into the engine oil. Technically, these should get picked up by the oil filter but why chance it?
I used a small round file to knock off all of the free/extra aluminum that Ford had to offer. I’m more comfortable with it on the floor of my garage vs my oil pan.
Received some of the basic short block parts for assembling the Boss 302 engine. The block itself is backordered until later this month. Everything looks as it should. I’m going to get some of the other internal engine parts ordered up this week and should be able to assemble the engine as soon as the block arrives. I also picked up the Boss 302 oil pan.
It’s hard to beat Tousley Ford pricing – ask for Steve and tell him Jeff Foster sent ya!
Boss 302 Crankshaft M-6303-M50B – $242.00 (I couldn’t believe it either!)
Boss 302R Piston/Rod/Ring Combo M-6100-M50BR – $759.00
Boss 302 Oil Pan M-6675-M50B – $91.00
Boss 302 Harmonic Balancer (Ford Service Part) CR3Z-6312-A $55.72
Coyote/Boss Aluminum Block M-6010-A50 – $1100.00
I originally planned on a 2011 Coyote Crate Engine for my 93 coupe. Plans change. I REALLY liked the idea of being different and using a Boss 302 Crate engine but the $11,000 price tag really put me off. After examining some prices of internet Boss 302 engine parts from Ford Racing, I’ve decided that I’m going to attempt to build a Boss 302 spec engine myself. I hope to come in at an only slight price bump over the stock GT crate Coyote.
First will be the short block, then I’ll allow my depleted funds to rejuvenate before I dive into the CNC ported Boss-specific cylinder heads and associated timing gear.
Block – The Boss block is a standard production Coyote aluminum piece so no tricks here. It comes standard production bore and “should” (I’ve received mixed reports on this) accept the production Boss 302 Pistons.
Crankshaft – This is a Boss 302 specific crankshaft in that it comes pre-balanced for the Boss 302R Piston/Rod combo.
Pistons/Rods – Ford was kind enough to sell the piston/rods already balanced for the Boss crankshaft.
What’s interesting to me about this build is the possibility of OEM quality (argue amongst yourselves on that one) without needing to visit a machine shop..at all. I’m hoping to be able to simply bolt this engine together (after careful measuring), as it comes from Ford – which takes the challenge of finding (any paying!) a qualified machinist to prepare your parts.