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Ok – so I skipped ahead a bit. I have a bunch of pictures and information from the assembly of the 2012 Boss 302 engine but it’s going to take a while to get everything organized and write that article.
Here’s a pic of the installed engine. I painted the engine cover and intake to better match the car – and to make it a little different.
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Yesterday, I received the Boss 302 heads for my build. The runners and chambers are CNC ported and look great. I should be able to start engine assembly next week.
I finally received the coyote 5.0 block. It was discontinued by Ford Racing and is supposedly pending replacement by a revised version. The new block will no longer have the option for oil squirters and uses a slightly smaller diameter head bolt. I wonder if there was some weakness in the deck of the previous block that necessitated the head bolt revision?
This discontinued version of the block as part number M-6010-A50L4V
One thing that I noticed right away was that many of the machined surfaces inside the block had numerous burrs and shavings just waiting to fall off into the engine oil. Technically, these should get picked up by the oil filter but why chance it?
I used a small round file to knock off all of the free/extra aluminum that Ford had to offer. I’m more comfortable with it on the floor of my garage vs my oil pan.
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Received some of the basic short block parts for assembling the Boss 302 engine. The block itself is backordered until later this month. Everything looks as it should. I’m going to get some of the other internal engine parts ordered up this week and should be able to assemble the engine as soon as the block arrives. I also picked up the Boss 302 oil pan.
It’s hard to beat Tousley Ford pricing – ask for Steve and tell him Jeff Foster sent ya!
Boss 302 Crankshaft M-6303-M50B – $242.00 (I couldn’t believe it either!)
Boss 302R Piston/Rod/Ring Combo M-6100-M50BR – $759.00
Boss 302 Oil Pan M-6675-M50B – $91.00
Boss 302 Harmonic Balancer (Ford Service Part) CR3Z-6312-A $55.72
Coyote/Boss Aluminum Block M-6010-A50 – $1100.00
I originally planned on a 2011 Coyote Crate Engine for my 93 coupe. Plans change. I REALLY liked the idea of being different and using a Boss 302 Crate engine but the $11,000 price tag really put me off. After examining some prices of internet Boss 302 engine parts from Ford Racing, I’ve decided that I’m going to attempt to build a Boss 302 spec engine myself. I hope to come in at an only slight price bump over the stock GT crate Coyote.
First will be the short block, then I’ll allow my depleted funds to rejuvenate before I dive into the CNC ported Boss-specific cylinder heads and associated timing gear.
Block – The Boss block is a standard production Coyote aluminum piece so no tricks here. It comes standard production bore and “should” (I’ve received mixed reports on this) accept the production Boss 302 Pistons.
Crankshaft – This is a Boss 302 specific crankshaft in that it comes pre-balanced for the Boss 302R Piston/Rod combo.
Pistons/Rods – Ford was kind enough to sell the piston/rods already balanced for the Boss crankshaft.
What’s interesting to me about this build is the possibility of OEM quality (argue amongst yourselves on that one) without needing to visit a machine shop..at all. I’m hoping to be able to simply bolt this engine together (after careful measuring), as it comes from Ford – which takes the challenge of finding (any paying!) a qualified machinist to prepare your parts.
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This was the last of the parts that I needed to install from the Maximum Grip Box. It’s an adjustable rear sway bar kit from Maximum Motorsports. It’s actually very easy to install. The instructions are extensive but all that’s involved is basically pre-assembling the parts, as you see in the pictures, positioning the assembly and welding it into place.
http://www.bestmustangparts.com/product_p/mmrsb-2.1.htm
No, I’m not giving close-up pictures of my welds 
As part of the maximum grip box, I installed the set of lower control arms. These arms have a urethane bushing at the chassis end and a spherical at the other end. I didn’t need the spring perches but I wanted the sway bar mounts (for rear disk brakes, the factory e-brake cable retaining bracket is connected to the same hole as the sway bar mounts. I wanted to retain this.).
I also installed the “Wild Rides” torque box reinforcement brackets for the lowers. The kit included the upper brackets too – but I no longer use upper control arms, so… These fit really well. I tightened the control arm/chassis bolt first and the bracket pulled up nice and flush with the seat base above it. I drilled and mounted the top plate and then covered it with a sound deadening material – I imagine some additional NVH will want to transmit through this area.
All-in-all a simple install. Grease the bushings really well to avoid squeaks. I’ll post the torque arm install next – which is when the actual rear end goes back into the car.
Ford didn’t paint the rear end in these cars so even though it has low miles, this rear end was looking a little rough. It was going to be mostly disconnected for the lower control arm and torque arm installations, so I took the opportunity to clean it up and paint it.
The two products that I like for this are Simple Green degreaser and VHT Black Roll-Bar Paint. I only recently discovered the VHT paint at my local auto parts store and it’s awesome. It sticks and doesn’t easily scratch.
Don’t for get to unhook the rear brake line connection before lowering your rear end too much – see pics.
I had to remove the axles in order to take the caliper brackets off. In doing so, I discovered that the small bolt that retains the center pin was rounded off slightly. I had to tack weld a box wrench to it in order to remove it. Purchased a new one to replace it.
Sorry the pictures aren’t in order. 
Maximum Motorsports Grip Box – Forgeline Wheels – Nitto NT05 Tires installed
By admin | September 25, 2011
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I had been working on the suspension and rebuilding these wheels in no particular order. It seemed like this part of the project would never end but all of a sudden, it was done!
Wheels are Forgeline GT3 in 18×8.5 and 18×9.5 with Nitto NT05s in 245 40 18 front and 285 35 18 rear. There is still no engine in the car, so the ride height isn’t 100%.
Here are some pictures to give you an idea of how the Maximum Motorsports COP-1 rear coilover kit is assembled. This is the kit for bilstein shocks.
