This discontinued version of the block as part number M-6010-A50L4V

One thing that I noticed right away was that many of the machined surfaces inside the block had numerous burrs and shavings just waiting to fall off into the engine oil.  Technically, these should get picked up by the oil filter but why chance it?

I used a small round file to knock off all of the free/extra aluminum that Ford had to offer.  I’m more comfortable with it on the floor of my garage vs my oil pan.

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The two products that I like for this are Simple Green degreaser and VHT Black Roll-Bar Paint.  I only recently discovered the VHT paint at my local auto parts store and it’s awesome.  It sticks and doesn’t easily scratch.

Don’t for get to unhook the rear brake line connection before lowering your rear end too much – see pics.

I had to remove the axles in order to take the caliper brackets off.  In doing so, I discovered that the small bolt that retains the center pin was rounded off slightly.  I had to tack weld a box wrench to it in order to remove it.  Purchased a new one to replace it.

Sorry the pictures aren’t in order.

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Wheels are Forgeline GT3 in 18×8.5 and 18×9.5 with Nitto NT05s in 245 40 18 front and 285 35 18 rear.  There is still no engine in the car, so the ride height isn’t 100%.

The post Maximum Motorsports Grip Box – Forgeline Wheels – Nitto NT05 Tires installed appeared first on 93Coupe.com.

As soon as Ford announced the new modular 2011 5.0 engine for the Mustang GT, I was dreaming about what a great engine this would be in a Fox body car. It seems that I wasn’t the only one, as there are at least two cars being fitted with this engine as I write this.  Here are the ones that are currently getting updates:

Click here for the Stangnet 5.0 Coupe project thread

Highflowfuel.com Blog

I am planning to go the same route with my 93 coupe.  The 331 and Vortech setup is currently for sale.  I’ll use the proceeds from that to purchase and install the “new” 5.0.  Stay tuned!

Update – 331 sold, pickup up a 2011 5.0 crate engine soon!

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As most are aware, pre ’94 Mustangs had front disc, rear drum brakes in 4-lug.  Some of the things that attracted me to this conversion are probably the same things that have made this one of the most popular modifications for Fox Body Mustangs.

• Sealed Hubs (no more packing wheel bearings!)
• Larger diameter rotors
• Large selection of calipers
• Use any OEM 5-lug wheel from 94-2004 Mustangs

There are MANY ways to accomplish 5-lug and/or disc brakes but I’m just going to cover my preferred method/parts.  It’s my opinion that, given the opportunity, each modification done to a Mustang should improve performance to a measurable degree.  That’s to say – I would never go the route of installing 5-lug ranger parts, just to get 5-lug but basically still have the remaining pitfalls of the fox braking design.  This setup seems to be the most popular and for good reason – you’ll have the largest selection of calipers and wheels out of any of the other conversion options out there.  There are a few sites with instructions and parts lists for doing this and the other conversions – check out http://www.sn95brakes.com/5lug.php for information.  Like I said, I’m going to focus on the one that I consider the best.  Most guys can swing a wrench but the questions that I usually see are in regards to which kit to use and why.

Front

Here’s what you start with:

Obviously, do this at your own risk.  You can probably swing a wrench, so I’m not going to go through every nut and bolt here.  I’m going to hit the basic points and mention a few tips that I’ve learned (and mistakes that I’ve made) to help you out.  If you aren’t familiar with working on your own car and/or you don’t know when and where to use floor jacks and safety equipment, you should not attempt this or any of the modifications on this site.

Let’s take the old stuff off.  Remove the caliper and line (disconnect flexible brake line at the hardline, not the caliper).  Here’s your first tip – You might be tempted to avoid a greasy mess and try to remove the spindle and rotor as an assembly – don’t do it!  I tried this and the lower control arm gets hung up on the inside edge of the rotor, requiring you to remove the rotor anyway.  Take the rotor off (remove cotter pin assembly, nut, washer and bearing – slide it off.).  Remove the tie-rod end.  Loosen the strut to spindle bolts.

You need to be careful with the next part.  Breaking the spindle lose from the lower ball joint can be difficult.  I like to use the pressure of the spring to help out.  What I mean is, loosen the ball joint nut, a turn or two – make sure it’s still threaded onto the ball joint enough that it’s not going to come off.  Put a floor jack under the lower control arm – make it close, but don’t support the weight yet.  Use a pickle fork and hammer to break it free.  Support the control arm with the jack and remove the nut.  I like to CHAIN the spring into the K-member because it CAN come flying out and kill you.  If you are also changing the springs, remove the swaybar link and lower the control arm down until the spring falls out.  Be careful.  If you aren’t changing the springs, you can put the SN95 spindle in place.  You’re going to need a .300″ spacer under the spindle nut – or a couple large hardened washers that are approximately the same thickness.

Thankfully, most of the 94+ (SN95) front brake parts will swap right over.  The main thing you need to find is 94-95 spindles from a GT, Cobra or V6.  I obtained mine from a local salvage yard – they had the sealed hubs included and were in good shape.  I’m a little ashamed of not blasting these to make them a little nicer looking prior to these pictures.

To be continued…

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