The two products that I like for this are Simple Green degreaser and VHT Black Roll-Bar Paint.  I only recently discovered the VHT paint at my local auto parts store and it’s awesome.  It sticks and doesn’t easily scratch.

Don’t for get to unhook the rear brake line connection before lowering your rear end too much – see pics.

I had to remove the axles in order to take the caliper brackets off.  In doing so, I discovered that the small bolt that retains the center pin was rounded off slightly.  I had to tack weld a box wrench to it in order to remove it.  Purchased a new one to replace it.

Sorry the pictures aren’t in order.

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The MM instructions are pretty good.  They start out assuming that your car is still together and driving.  Mine was stripped down with no front suspension in sight…so I skipped the first 3-4 pages.

When you’re doing the entire suspension, you can almost start anywhere.  I decided to assemble the K-member / Control Arms first and then square them up to the chassis.

Basically, you’re going to bolt the control arms to the k-member.  When assembling the bushings and sleeves into the control arms, a VERY thick grease is applied.  Get a box of gloves and change them frequently unless you want EVERYTHING you touch to be graced with a sticky, dirt attracting coat of grease. It’s like normal grease and superglue had kids – no kidding!

Here you can see the poly bushings that are inserted into the control arms – they go in both sides, 4 per control arm.  Grease everything up first.  You can see the ID of the poly bushing is grooved to hold and distribute grease.  Grease the sides too, where they will contact the k-member.  The steel sleeves are inserted into the bushing assembly prior to installing the control arm into the k-member.  Watch out because they are different lengths, front and rear.

MM now includes these low-profile front control arm bolts to replace the factory ones where the larger head would previously contact the power steering rack boots.  You must use the factory rear bolt and both factory nuts.  MM includes two nuts that DO fit but they are spindle nuts, so don’t use them here.

My favorite way to install a k-member by myself.  Just jack it up and bolt it in.

To square the k-member into the car, do the following:

- Use a plumb bob at four points around the car and mark those locations on a piece of tape on the floor below.  The k-member has two holes for the front corners and use the outside of the chassis bolts on the rear control arms.

- Measure front to back on each side and move the k-member until this is equal.

- Re-mark the front locations with the plumb bob, as they will have changed. Measure the diagonal corners to set the k-member side-to-side location.

- When you think you are done, measure again.

The caster camber plates are painfully easy to install.  You should be able to tell how they go together from these pictures.  I didn’t have to use the bump stops that are included with the kit because the MM struts that I have include internal bump stops.  The only problem that I had was a little excess filler in the holes at the top of the shock towers.  I couldn’t really see it, but it was there and it stopped the plates from reaching their full range of adjustment.  I had to sand a couple of the holes to make it all fit.

The coil-overs were pretty easy to assemble.  I didn’t get a picture of the bearing at the top of the assembly.  I just didn’t think about grabbing the camera while my fingers had wheel bearing grease on them.  It’s basically a flat thrust bearing inside two flat races (they look like washers).

Following the MM instructions, I installed the correct spacer onto the coil-over assembly and then installed it into the caster camber plate.  It’s likely that you’ll need a spacer on the top as well to avoid running out of threads on the strut.

I cleaned up my old spindles and installed them onto the lower control arm ball joint.  I was happy to see that this ball joint did not require the spacer usually needed when using SN95 spindles on a fox ball joint.

Almost ready to order the 5.0 Crate Motor.

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I saw this in a post by Foxinator and it made a lot of sense.  I decided to give it a shot.  Check out hit excellent thread on Modularfords.com.

You can see the differences (and similarities) between the two OEM setups in the first few pictures.  I painted the fox setup with some silver paint so that my marker would show up a little better.  The key here is to leave as much metal as possible on the column mounting half.  I had to add a little brace to mine (as did foxinator) to bridge the gap left by not leaving enough metal when I separated the two pieces.

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As most are aware, pre ’94 Mustangs had front disc, rear drum brakes in 4-lug.  Some of the things that attracted me to this conversion are probably the same things that have made this one of the most popular modifications for Fox Body Mustangs.

• Sealed Hubs (no more packing wheel bearings!)
• Larger diameter rotors
• Large selection of calipers
• Use any OEM 5-lug wheel from 94-2004 Mustangs

There are MANY ways to accomplish 5-lug and/or disc brakes but I’m just going to cover my preferred method/parts.  It’s my opinion that, given the opportunity, each modification done to a Mustang should improve performance to a measurable degree.  That’s to say – I would never go the route of installing 5-lug ranger parts, just to get 5-lug but basically still have the remaining pitfalls of the fox braking design.  This setup seems to be the most popular and for good reason – you’ll have the largest selection of calipers and wheels out of any of the other conversion options out there.  There are a few sites with instructions and parts lists for doing this and the other conversions – check out http://www.sn95brakes.com/5lug.php for information.  Like I said, I’m going to focus on the one that I consider the best.  Most guys can swing a wrench but the questions that I usually see are in regards to which kit to use and why.

Front

Here’s what you start with:

Obviously, do this at your own risk.  You can probably swing a wrench, so I’m not going to go through every nut and bolt here.  I’m going to hit the basic points and mention a few tips that I’ve learned (and mistakes that I’ve made) to help you out.  If you aren’t familiar with working on your own car and/or you don’t know when and where to use floor jacks and safety equipment, you should not attempt this or any of the modifications on this site.

Let’s take the old stuff off.  Remove the caliper and line (disconnect flexible brake line at the hardline, not the caliper).  Here’s your first tip – You might be tempted to avoid a greasy mess and try to remove the spindle and rotor as an assembly – don’t do it!  I tried this and the lower control arm gets hung up on the inside edge of the rotor, requiring you to remove the rotor anyway.  Take the rotor off (remove cotter pin assembly, nut, washer and bearing – slide it off.).  Remove the tie-rod end.  Loosen the strut to spindle bolts.

You need to be careful with the next part.  Breaking the spindle lose from the lower ball joint can be difficult.  I like to use the pressure of the spring to help out.  What I mean is, loosen the ball joint nut, a turn or two – make sure it’s still threaded onto the ball joint enough that it’s not going to come off.  Put a floor jack under the lower control arm – make it close, but don’t support the weight yet.  Use a pickle fork and hammer to break it free.  Support the control arm with the jack and remove the nut.  I like to CHAIN the spring into the K-member because it CAN come flying out and kill you.  If you are also changing the springs, remove the swaybar link and lower the control arm down until the spring falls out.  Be careful.  If you aren’t changing the springs, you can put the SN95 spindle in place.  You’re going to need a .300″ spacer under the spindle nut – or a couple large hardened washers that are approximately the same thickness.

Thankfully, most of the 94+ (SN95) front brake parts will swap right over.  The main thing you need to find is 94-95 spindles from a GT, Cobra or V6.  I obtained mine from a local salvage yard – they had the sealed hubs included and were in good shape.  I’m a little ashamed of not blasting these to make them a little nicer looking prior to these pictures.

To be continued…

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